The imperfect perfection of my first solo backpack
As my car rattled up the road mixed with washboard and potholes, the feeling in my stomach began to turn from excitement to nervousness. I went over my list of supplies in my head, certain I had triple checked them against the list on REI’s website. I assured myself I had everything I needed and then some; that I was headed to a well populated area; that I had all of the skills I needed to head into the wilderness alone for 3 days…
Just under a week before, when my plans to hike a section of the Pacific Crest Trail from White Pass to Chinook Pass fell through, I had my maps splayed across my living room floor and my eyes were drawn to the Goat Rocks Wilderness. This was an area I really hadn’t ventured into during my day hikes, yet one that seemed accessible in a reasonable amount of time. With an hour or two of Google searches and map checks, I had a route planned out, with a lofty goal of 9-11 miles each day. I gathered my final supplies and packed my bag in the days ahead, excitement growing every minute.
In my reviews I had read how busy the trailhead could get, and the fact that it was Labor Day weekend had not escaped me, however I was unprepared by the huge line of cars that I found! I laced up my boots, loaded my pack onto my back, and set off, passing a few others getting ready to hit the trail. About 50 yards down the road I realized with a lurch that I had forgotten to make my America the Beautiful pass visible. Paranoid of any negative consequences, I marched myself back to the car and past all those same hikers and their vehicles. As I walked, one guy called to me “Back already? That was a quick hike!” I called back with the explanation of forgetting my pass as I hung it on my rear-view mirror and walked back down the road. As I passed the man for the third time, he asked “Are you going for one day or one month?” Laughing, I replied I’d be out for three and continued on to the trailhead.
Day One: Snowgrass Flats Tr. to Cispus Basin and Sheep Lake via PCT
As I walked among the trees on Snowgrass Flats Trail, happy to be in my beloved woods once again, I began to ponder the man’s comment. Was he being completely sarcastic, joking that my pack was overfilled for a weekend trip, or did he truly believe I was capable of being on the trail for a month? I thought of my lofty goals of being on the Washington PCT for a month next summer; was I kidding myself? When I made it out of my first backpacking trip in New Zealand back in 2013, I swore to myself I’d never stay out that long again…although I could think of a few things I swore I’d never do (or never do again) that have made me eat my words… I convinced myself to drive the man’s comments from my mind and focus on the trail ahead.
The trail was busier than most hikes I have done in Washington. I tend not to search the internet for my hiking inspiration, instead cross-matching those closest to me on the WTA app’s map with those showcasing the best views. I passed or was passed by several groups of people on the trail, and I began to worry about finding a campsite for the night. Reaching my first intersection with Bypass Trail 97 much quicker than expected, I hoped not everyone would take this route up to the PCT.
Not long after I left the Bypass Trail for the Pacfic Crest Trail, I spied the perfect campsite to the right of the trail! A small rocky outcropping provided a break in the trees and when standing near the edge, the top of Mount Adams was visible above the ridge. Though not as far along the trial as I’d planned, I decided to drop my heavy pack and set up camp.
Once my home for the night was assembled, I checked my watch and, learning it was only a bit after noon, decided to day hike all the way to Sheep Lake, longer than my original plans. Beyond pleased by the beautiful weather and the prospect of the day, I headed south along the PCT toward Cispus Basin and Sheep Lake.
I was slightly disheartened when I arrived to the lake and found its shores surrounded by people, but I spied an empty clearing along the opposite bank and knew I couldn’t truly be upset. The warm sun shone down on my skin and sparkled on the water as I set down my pack, removed my shoes, socks, shorts, and shirt, and jumped in! My breath caught in my chest as I hit the cold water and I immediately walked back out, smiling to myself. I allowed the sun to dry my skin as I read a couple chapters along the shore, then gathered my things and headed back to the trail.
When I returned to my campsite I found another hiker sitting by the fire-pit near my tent. She quickly explained to me that her husband was looking for another site farther down the trail, but options weren’t looking good. Internally disappointed by the prospect of sharing my perfect find, I told her “no worries” and that there was plenty of room. As I was cooking dinner and the couple assembled their tent, two additional families ended up joining us. I enjoyed my dinner and later a sunset with the not-so-peaceful chatter of children in the background. Yet as I snuggled into my sleeping bag later that evening, I was still beyond pleased with my first day.
Day Two: Through the Goat Rocks from Cispus Basin to the Knife’s Edge via PCT, feat. Old Snowy
I awoke to the sound of, once again, children’s chatter. I laid in my tent in denial for a few minutes, then got up in search of my food bag. After warming up with some hot tea and snacking on some breakfast, I packed up camp, smiled once more at the view of Mount Adams peaking through the clouds, and headed north along the trail. I didn’t expect to hike too far with my heavy pack today and was unbelievably excited about the prospect of the Knife’s Edge.
After a few miles, I found another campsite along the PCT with an even better view of Adams. Once again I set up camp and gathered necessary items into my day pack. This time I set off north along the PCT, climbing farther into the Goat Rocks Spine. While my morning had been nothing but beautiful so far, the skies ahead began to worry me. As I crossed a patch of perennial snow, I saw a wall of clouds blocking any view beyond the ridge above me, eventually blocking the trail…
Taking a few minutes to regroup, I followed the trail with my eyes to the summit of Old Snowy, curving to the right of the cloud wall. This summit had not been a priority on my list; I wasn’t sure how much mileage it would add to my day and the highlight of the day was to be the Knife’s Edge. However, with the Knife’s Edge currently hidden from me and the time barely past noon, I decided on the summit, hopeful the clouds would clear by the time I came down.
Getting to the top of Old Snowy was a scramble. The black volcanic rocks jutted out in all directions and at times the twisting trail became hard to follow. Thankful for my trekking poles and using my hands to climb at times, I soon reached the top. I was slightly discouraged that I had to share the summit with six others, but considering the number of people I passed on my way up, I was thankful to find a perch. Four of the six left after a few moments and I was soon able to enjoy a nearly unobstructed view of my surroundings, taking my breath away.
Then, as quickly as it had come, my beautiful view was obstructed by a family of three attaining the summit. I hopefully gazed north, only to see the cloud continuing to obstruct the trail, but between the wind and the crowds decided it was nevertheless time to descend. I asked someone to snap my picture before I began my climb back down the way I had come.
I passed even more people on my way down than I had on the way up, carefully stepping to the side of the narrow trial for each and thankful again for my trekking poles. As I reached the junction for the PCT Alternate Route once again, I debated my options. I could continue north through the cloud or I could return to camp. It was only 1:30 PM. Then I spied a thru-hiker just north of the junction, a woman who looked about my age. I approached her and asked which direction she was headed. She replied that she was headed north and had no idea whether or not the clouds would part for views ahead; “I would love some views, but not expecting them” she told me as she headed north.
“If she can do it, with a fully loaded pack, then I can with this little thing” I told myself as I set off after her. Soon I was immersed in the cloud and exclaiming in amazement to myself; it was like being in another world! I could see 15-30 feet ahead of me in all directions, making me confident and intrigued in the path ahead.
I began the trek back along the Goat Rocks to my tent, a battle raging between my urge to take photos and the dwindling battery life of my phone. The clouds to the south had since parted, leaving the trail ahead completely visible and allowing me to utilize the original PCT for my return.
I knew the trail to my campsite was hard to find, (the tent was tucked behind a small ridge of rocks on one side and hidden by trees on the other) but I was also on the lookout for it! Nevertheless, though on high alert for my site, I found myself faced with the intersection with Snowgrass Flats Tr. Embarrassed, I turned around, knowing I would have to once again pass a couple ladies I had been interacting with intermittently throughout my day. Sure enough, I soon found them and they questioned me: “feels like deja vu”. Laughing I explained my situation and we agreed: if they saw me for a fourth time that day they’d be concerned.
My interactions with these two women are one of the things I look back on most fondly from this trip. I first met them along the Knife’s Edge, where I had stopped thinking I would have a snack and turn around. They were headed south with small packs slung over their shoulders. I don’t know how the conversation moved past the typical “hello” given in passing on the trail, but we began discussing our adventures of the day so far. I told them that I was thinking of turning around, happy that I got as much view as I had due to the clouds. They encouraged me that views of Mount Rainier were slightly better up ahead and said they’d decided against Old Snowy because of the clouds earlier in the day. Upon hearing this, I quickly said that I’d been up to Old Snowy with beautiful views and they should reconsider! When we met for the second time, as I passed them en route to camp, I happily learned we’d taken each other’s advice. The final interaction was, of course, when I passed them again after missing my site. Once again they offered me encouragement (and just a touch of concern), one of them telling me they’d absolutely once done the same thing.
Meeting individuals like these makes sharing the woods with others just as enjoyable as the solitude! Everyone I met on the trail over the course of this weekend was nothing but encouraging; always willing to take a picture, some amazed at my feat of heading out alone, some also out on their own on even bigger journeys than mine, but all of them pleasant. Ultimately though, I was glad for my solitude during my second night at camp.
As I settled into my sleeping bag, I left the door of my tent open to watch the remaining sunset. I was reading after the final light faded, when the wind picked up and I decided to close the tent for the night, considering setting an alarm to wake up and catch the stars. When I poked my head out to close the door however, I noticed starlight above me. Putting on my glasses, I looked up to see the Milky Way glimmering overhead! I removed my rainfly and enjoyed my view of the heavens, with shooting stars occasionally streaking the sky.
Day Three: PCT to Berry Patch TH via Lily Basin Tr. and Goat Ridge Tr. feat. Goat Lake and Hawkeye Point
I awoke this time to the light of the sun and when I opened the door of my tent, could not believe my eyes. The colors of the sunrise shone bright behind Mount Adams, with a sea of clouds below. I gazed in awe until the orange and pink sky gave way to light blue.
After forcing myself from the warmth of my sleeping bag, I headed to retrieve my food and decided to check out the view from where I’d watched the sunset the night before. I wasn’t disappointed. Alongside Mount Adams, Mount St. Helens was peaking above the clouds with her broken top.
My morning ritual of tea and a breakfast snack complete, I packed up my belongings and set out for the PCT once more. Today would likely be my shortest milage, but the longest with my full pack. My body ached slightly from the work of the past two days, and I wasn’t particularly excited about leaving the wilderness. Nevertheless, I set out to enjoy my final day of hiking under a spectacular clear blue sky.
My first stop of the day would be Goat Lake. As the sun climbed higher in the sky and my body temperature increased, I was excited by the prospect of a swim.
I left the beautiful blue waters of Goat Lake and continued along Lily Basin Tr. until I hit the junction with Goat Ridge Tr. Finding a spot to drop my heavy pack, I loaded my day pack for the final time. Hawkeye Point lay ahead.
Having taken in the scenery as much as I could, I made my way back down to my large backpack. Placing the load on my back one last time I set off on Goat Ridge Tr. back to my car. When I finally reached the parking area, I laughed out loud at the nearly empty parking lot. As I approached my car, I was grateful to drop my heavy pack one last time, and even more grateful for my three day solo journey into the Goat Rocks Wilderness.
Tell me what it is you plan to do with your one, wild life.
Mary Oliver
Want to see more photos? Check out the gallery for my trip into the Goat Rocks Wilderness here!